XW2DX. Лаос. Дорога назад в будущее.

Всю ночь я стонал во сне. Этот кошмар продолжается уже вторую неделю. Это, своего рода, плата за мою любовь к радио. Возмездие за многолетнюю преданность радиолюбительскому движению. Хотя, на самом деле, - всё банально просто! В этот день на солнце произошла вспышка. Я в этот момент уже находился на дереве и пытался зацепить растяжку антенны. Всё совпало в доли секунды. Ветка сломалась от удара о землю солнечной волны, и я, шлё-ё-ё-пнулся вниз.

Сломанные ребра медленно срастаются, так как грудная клетка всё время находится в подвижном состоянии. Главное, что трудно найти себе место в положении лёжа. Вес тела всё равно давит на «свежую» травму. На какую бы сторону не пытался перевернуться, ощущение такое, что на тебя наступил слон. Невозможно глубоко вдохнуть. А если захотелось чихнуть, то это как удар молнии, проходящей через всё тело острой болью.

Утром, очень медленно, как удав, как слизень, как амёба, я должен перетечь с кровати на пол, и встать на ноги. С ощущением, что у тебя «нож в боку», доковылять до кухни, где сварить себе кофе. С этого момента жизнь обнуляется.

И так, каждое утро.

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XW2DX. Как чёрный кофе связан с увлечением радио?

Как чёрный кофе связан с увлечением радио?

Каждое утро, перед тем как включить трансивер и услышать звуки эфира, я варю себе большую чашку лаосского черного кофе. Неповторимый запах и его удивительный вкус придают мне ощущение радости и наслаждения жизнью. Раньше, на Балканах, вместе с чашкой кофе я мог позволить себе выкурить одну сигарету. Что не сделаешь ради собственного удовольствия! В Лаосе очень жарко, поэтому эта привычка отпала сама собой. 

Что я знал о лаосском кофе?

Ничего!

Я хорошо помню свои студенческие годы. Обычно, готовясь к экзаменам, несколько дней и ночей перечитываешь пройденный материал. Именно тогда я впервые попробовал растворимый кофе. Во времена Советского Союза у нас не было никакого выбора кофе. Возможно, был зеленый немолотый кофе, который нужно было обжаривать. Я не помню! Мои родители и мы в детстве пили чай. Поэтому мы и не знали вкуса настоящего кофе. Потом уже, мне почему-то казалось, что эта растворимая отрава разрушает мою печень и я перестал его пить.

Прожив какое-то время на Балканах появилась привычка пить турецкий нерастворимый кофе.

Почему его так называли?

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XW2DX. Where you were born, there you came in handy!

Ниже находится текст на русском языке.

August this year will be phenomenal! In August 5 Saturdays, 5 Sundays and 5 Mondays. This happens once every 823 years. The Chinese call this phenomenon "a bag full of money"!

Joy to life distinguishes Lao from other peoples of the world. Today I want to talk about food and food products. We can't help but eat. We are always hungry. Food is the enjoyment of life!

One part of the working-age population of Laos works in the civil service.

The second part of the population can be divided into several more groups:

 - workers-sellers in markets, traders,

 - working at home.

 Entire neighborhoods of Vientiane live off tailors and cutters, whose workplace is part of their home, in which they live with their families. They all try on and sew from morning to night. There are small children next to them, growing up, playing with threads and bobbins.

All Lao people have ridden and ride motorcycles since childhood. From infancy, children are transported in this way. Many Lao people are well versed in technology. They disassemble, repair, service motorcycles on their own. There are motorcycle maintenance services in the city at every step. By chance I managed to spy, a neighbor's woman, in front of my eyes, took off the rear wheel herself, twisted it, knocked, and put back her "clunker". Cool!

 Laos is an agricultural country. A large number of workers are employed in agriculture. Many agricultural enterprises do not have mechanization, so all work is mainly done by hand. It's hard work - squeezing rice all day long in a 40-degree heat. Rice and fruits are the main agricultural products of Laos. The government has no money to buy fertilizers. Therefore, all agricultural products supplied to the domestic market are environmentally friendly. Dairy and beef farming is underdeveloped. There is no own milk here, it and meat are imported from Thailand, where it is 2 times cheaper.

A separate topic is markets, retail outlets and street trading. There are a lot of markets, outlets with street food in Vientiane. The markets are always fresh agricultural products. Due to the heat, it is not possible to store food for a long time. Every day fresh vegetables, fruits, salads, fish, poultry meat are brought to the markets. In the Lao market, you need to bargain, otherwise a foreigner will be "snatched" by products at an inflated price. We, foreigners, are clearly visible from afar. During this time of living in Laos, I only buy products from regular suppliers. Trust in the sellers has developed. They already remember me, give discounts.

 Everywhere, in all markets, there are women with babies. Often, when a child is born, there is no one to leave him with. A woman has to create conditions, right at the workplace, for the child to be with her. A baby bed with barriers is installed for the child and the child is always in the market next to the mother.

All Lao people love to eat well. But any food costs money. Good food costs a lot of money. Not every Lao has enough monthly budget to eat and drink for 3 days ?! So someone still has money! In Laos, food is not very expensive. If you eat like ordinary Lao people who eat in common food places all their lives, then the daily budget for one person will be about $ 10.

What is included in this amount?

Usually in the morning, for breakfast, a Lao eats a large bowl of noodle soup with salads - $ 1, juice, tea, water - $ 0.5. Lunch consists of a large portion of rice, with a huge amount of different salads, spices, broth - $ 3. In the evening, eat rice, sweets, drink beer and this is about $ 5. Therefore, it is possible to squeeze out and eat normally for an ordinary person who receives a monthly salary of $ 300 without any problems. Many rice dishes are quite varied and inexpensive. A huge role in the food culture is played by a variety of papaya, mango, spicy Korean salads, etc., which cost nothing. Grass, leaves, stems, roots, fruits, with different taste, smell and color, improve digestion. Lao people are mostly vegetarians, although they love meat very much.

We, too, at the very beginning, when we arrived in Laos, selectively bought some products in the market, for fear of catching an intestinal infection. Therefore, all products were first bought in a supermarket, where prices are 2 times higher than in the market. Over time, we found places - markets and fast food outlets, where prices are lower and the quality is not worse than in supermarkets. Until today, there has not been a single case when we and our children got poisoned or got sick with an intestinal infection.

Several months ago, returning home, I saw two Lao pensioners in a cafe. Merry, they sang in karaoke. We drank beer. The large table was filled with food.

 Interestingly, I thought, even pensioners keep up with the youth. Songs, beer and food are everywhere. All Lao people love to eat a lot. They constantly chew something, and most importantly, they constantly drink.

Appetizing scents envelop the whole Vientiane from early morning until late at night.

 People wake up and immediately start cooking and eating. We in Europe are used to starting the morning with a cup of coffee. That is, in the morning I never gorged, because the brain works better on an empty stomach. In Laos, the opposite is true. Morning breakfast is both lunch and dinner. They don't really need to strain their brains. Everything was decided for them and there was no need to think about anything. The people are happy. No hungry. Everything is in business. Everything in their life is good. This means that the People's Revolutionary Party is following the right path!

He who works well eats a lot!

Here are some statistics on who is how much and who weighs how much.

Studies have shown that in most Asian countries, people are on average lighter than those in the West. This is understandable, because the Western style of eating is the most harmful and contributes to the development of obesity more than others. Since rice is the main food crop in Asia, the level of obesity is significantly lower here. On average, 150 grams / day or more per person comes out. This association suggests that the prevalence of obesity is low in countries where rice is consumed as a staple food.

 According to my observations: in Laos there are several times less fat people than in Thailand. Before the pandemic, we constantly traveled to Thailand and of course there are more overweight people there.

My forecast for Laos for 2020-2021 is as follows.

 Even now, due to the shortage of a large number of manufactured goods that Laos has imported, the state and people do not have much difficulty with food. More than a year will pass when the price of common products starts to rise. Today, during the period of isolation and pandemic, I can say that the price per 1 kg for certain seasonal food products has fallen, and these are: rice - $ 0.7, mango - $ 0.6, pineapple - $ 0.5, passion fruit - $ 0.5, apples - $ 0.5, corn - $ 0.4, bananas - $ 0.5, parsley, green onions, dill - all for $ 0.1, tomatoes - $ 0.5, cucumbers - $ 0.3.

 The price of permanent (popular) products, such as steakyris - $ 1, beer - $ 0.9, flour - $ 0.5, etc., will remain unchanged throughout the year. Only for imports, which are dairy products and meat, prices have gone up since the start of the global crisis. The market will shift in a year if the production of products is less than consumer demand or there is a dry period. All food prices will slowly grow imperceptibly and will not hit the budget of the country's population.

Overproduction of agricultural products is evident today. Therefore, its cost is lower than the world market price for food
Overproduction of agricultural products is evident today. Therefore, its cost is lower than the world market price for food

Small inflation during the year and the rise in prices for all goods, people will not even feel. The growth of the gross product during the crisis, today, is even higher than before it. There is an oversupply of some agricultural products. Bottom line: famine does not threaten the Lao people. The only factor that can cause a rise in prices and bring down the food market may be hunger in neighboring countries of Laos, such as India or China. When export prices rise and most of the agricultural products will flow abroad. But this will not happen in the coming years.

 Residents of Laos, sleep well! There will be no hunger!

If you have worked well all week, then of course you are tired. Play karaoke, buy a few cases of beer, invite your friends and have fun. Don't think about anything! Everything will be fine in Laos!

To be continued.


Где родился, там и пригодился!

Август в этом году будет феноменальным! В августе 5 суббот, 5 воскресений и 5 понедельников. Такое случается один раз в 823 года. Китайцы называют это явление "мешок полный денег" !

Радость к жизни - отличает лаосцев от других народов мира. Сегодня мне хочется рассказать о еде и продуктах питания. Мы не можем не есть. Мы всегда хотим есть. Еда — это наслаждение жизнью!

Одна часть трудоспособного населения Лаоса работает на государственной службе.

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XW2DX. Laos lives in "infinity"!

Ниже находится текст на русском языке.

The soul is immortal, therefore human life is priceless ...

This Buddhist philosophy is very important from the point of view of understanding all the processes taking place, both inside Laos and in the surrounding world.

How quickly decisions are made at certain points, and what factors influence this process?

It is with these questions that you come across when you cannot understand why the movement towards your own development is at the level of the speed of movement of the snail. For example, in Montenegro, making a decision is often postponed until tomorrow, because it takes time to make a decision to think it over. It is for this that Montenegrins are called lazy, although this is not so. Laziness cannot be called the thought process of analyzing a situation. It is the delayed decision making that can least of all harm the work, avoid unforeseen losses and risks. It often happens that it is during this delayed period that the correct solution to a given task or problem comes. In this I completely agree with the Montenegrins. Therefore, the word "tomorrow" does not mean that this will never happen! It literally means that you need to think carefully.

There are no unresolved problems in Laos. In Laos, every day, at meetings and planning meetings, tasks are set that are prescribed in all documents by the leading Lao People's Revolutionary Party. It is they who govern the strategy for the development of society and the state. I remember our Soviet Union well. Every morning we had a planning meeting. The workers were reminded of the goals and objectives of the movement towards developed socialism and communism.

Well, was that bad?

Imagine - a mother of two small children, schoolchildren. Waking up at 6.00 in the morning, she had to: take off her dry clothes, cook breakfast, prepare clothes, socks, wipe shoes for schoolchildren. Prepare clothes for her husband, a tie, a list of things to buy after work ... Wake up, wash, dress, feed and send the children to school. Feed your husband and send him to work. Then, dress yourself, comb your hair, put on makeup, “grab” something on the move, and run out of the house “like a bullet”. Run to the bus stop. Squeeze into a crowded, like her, bus, remembering on the go what she missed to do. Crumpled and sweaty, pushing others around with her elbows, jump out of the bus, run to the checkpoint of the plant so as not to be late and not get another reprimand. And, only after passing the checkpoint of the plant, exhale, and entering the shop, begin to recover from the cycle of everyday events. This example is memories from my childhood.

Well, how can such a worker immediately remember what he needs to do in the workplace, and what are the plans of the party and the government for this day, on the path of movement towards developed socialism?

Life was different. Of course, we all went through these situations to some extent. The understanding of the general process of the cycle of events was imprinted in the memory. We were all in a hurry to live and there was not enough time for everything. Often, the rush itself did not lead to the desired result. Here, in Laos, some decisions are made, it seems to me, at a philosophical level. The time for making decisions is not limited by the time itself ... That is, a Montenegrin need only 1-2 days to make a decision, while a Lao needs 20 days or more.

I still can't figure out why?

Apparently, I had to be born in Laos to understand this!

  We have a different frame of reference with them. Different system of world order. Different history and religion. Going back to the beginning of this post. We all try to do something in our short life, so the time for making decisions, most often, is limited. It is impossible to endlessly ponder and grind some questions that tomorrow will lose their meaning and relevance.

Laos lives exponentially, that is, in infinity. There is such a mathematical component. Therefore, the expression: "Time is money" - does not make any sense here!

To be continued.

Лаос живёт в "бесконечности"!

Душа бессмертна, поэтому человеческая жизнь бесценна...

Эта буддийская философия очень важна с точки зрения понимая всех процессов, происходящих, как внутри Лаоса, так и в окружающем мире.

Насколько быстро происходит принятие решений в опеределенные моменты, и какие факторы влияют на этот процесс?

Именно с этими вопросами сталкиваешься, когда не можешь понять, почему движение в сторону собственного развития идет на уровне скорости движения улитки. Например, в Черногории, принятие решения чаще всего переносится на «завтра», потому что для принятия решения необходимо время, чтобы всё хорошенько обдумать. Именно за это черногорцев называют ленивыми, хотя это не так. Ленью нельзя называть мыслительный процесс анализа ситуации. Именно отложенное принятие решения может меньше всего навредить работе, избежать непредвиденных убытков и рисков. Часто так бывает, что именно в этот отсроченный период приходит правильное решение на поставленную задачу или проблемму. В этом я полностью согласен с черногорцами. Поэтому слово «сУтра» — не означает, что этого не произойдёт никогда! Оно дословно означает, что нужно хорошенько подумать.

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XW2DX. In 15 years we will all be DX - s!

Ниже находится текст на русском языке.

Yesterday I wrote a piece called "Laos is different!" Nature heard me and gave me a sign that I was wrong. And now for the second day in Vientiane it is pouring rain. There was a thunderstorm at night, and the sun did not come out in the morning. The gray sky touched my vertical antenna, which is made of bamboo sticks. The wet bamboo under the weight of the stretch marks bent like a bow, shooting my modest "miniwatts" into the orphaned ether. I was left in Laos alone, "all alone "!

Where are you Lao radio amateurs, which one, two, and miscalculated?

What's happening?

Imagine that an abnormal situation has occurred. All power plants in the world, all local substations that generate electricity, are out of order. The planet was left without "light". Everything stopped. Nothing works. Communications do not work, pumps for water supply do not work, gas stations do not work, refrigerators do not work ... And most importantly, telephones and the Internet do not work. This is a collapse. It's an ass! Most likely, each of us has already experienced such a state when, for some reason, the electricity was cut off for several hours. Usually, people go out into the courtyard and, together with their neighbors, begin to discuss what is happening, "wash the bones" to the neighbor, the mayor of the city, and then to the president. There is no more "OK" or "fb" - N.O.T.H.I.N.G! There is only hope that all this will soon pass and return to our usual course. It won't work. The world around us has turned upside down!

What will happen next?

Most importantly, no one knows what happened and there is no one to ask. Previously, each apartment had a wired radio and the working day began with the song “Where does the Motherland Begin”, followed by news reports. This is nothing else! Even nostalgia for those times, gradually, like an internal pain, passed over the years.

It's good that I, like millions of other people, use a gas stove, and immediately brewed coffee for myself so that, while enjoying its smell, not to think about bad things. But there has been no electricity for a whole day and night will come soon. If you do not have a gas generator in your garage, you will have to use a regular battery from the car to quickly distribute electrical wiring around the house and connect 12 volt bulbs. Wipe off dust and connect Icom-706, hook on the antenna and try to listen to the broadcast. This will be done by millions of radio amateurs who have experienced similar situations quite often. It is the radio amateurs, from the perspective of the civilian population, who are the first to provide communication during emergencies.

The apocalypse is coming!

What do you need to be prepared for?

Many wealthy people, especially in America, have already prepared by setting up underground bunkers in case of nuclear war. For the military, this infrastructure has always functioned flawlessly, and they spent part of their life, part of their service exactly there, in the bunker, where there are all the necessary communications.

It may seem strange why I have touched on this particular topic - the theme of the apocalypse. I don’t exaggerate. We, radio amateurs, are getting smaller and smaller every year. In 15 years there will be very few of us. We will all, for each other, become DX-s! In 5 years, humanity is waiting for a technological breakthrough and radio communication, as such, will become a thing of the past. We are all used to living in civilization. We are used to infrastructure. None of us can even think that we will have to run to an abandoned toilet, made of planks, and blown by a howling wind, because there is no water in the toilet, because there is no light, because no one understands that happens and there is no one to ask about it!

In Laos, Cambodia, Burma, Vietnam, Africa - until now, millions of people have been living in similar conditions for the last hundred years. They live, enjoy life, give birth to children, and do not know at what level of development people in other countries are. They do not have a wired radio in which the song "Where the Motherland Begins" sounds in the morning. There is not even an ordinary light bulb in their cardboard house covered with palm leaves. They don't know that some people have underground bunkers in case of nuclear war.

Yes, and why should they think about it?

They are happy because they don't know that when the electricity goes out, life stops indefinitely!

We are accustomed to civilization, we have accustomed our children to technological toys. Phones have replaced books, games, live communication. We isolated ourselves from the world around us. The world around us is beautiful! Better to see once! Just in Laos, I saw it with my own eyes. The conditions in which most of the population lives are in nature, in harmony with their understanding of their own development. People still cook on coals and sleep on the floor. But every kid has a mobile phone in his hands as a toy. Gadgets have captured and control the minds of children, the minds of people. Gadgets have replaced live communication with the outside world.

Today, every sane person decides for himself whether he wants to go further, in step with techno-civilization, or stay in his world, stay in his time.

To be continued


Через 15 лет мы все будет ДХ–сами!

Вчера я написал материал под названием «В Лаосе всё по-другому»! Природа услышала меня и дала мне знак, что я ошибаюсь. И вот уже второй день во Вьентьяне идёт проливной дождь. Ночью была гроза, а утром не выглянуло солнце. Серое небо коснулось моей вертикальной антенны, которая сделана из бамбуковых палок. Мокрый бамбук под тяжестью растяжек согнулся, словно лук, выстреливая мои скромные «миниваты» в осиротевший эфир. Я остался в Лаосе один, «савсэм одын»!

Где же вы лаосские радиолюбители, которых раз, два и обчёлся?!

Что происходит?

Представьте себе, что произошла внештатная ситуация. Все электрические станции мира, все местные подстанции, вырабатывающие электроэнергию, вышли из строя. Планета осталась без «света». Всё остановилось. Ничего не работает. Не работают коммуникации, не работают насосы для подачи воды, не работают бензоколонки, не работают холодильники... А главное, что не работают телефоны и интернет. Это коллапс. Это жопа! Скорее всего, каждый из нас уже испытывал такое состояние, когда по каким-то причинам отключали электричество на несколько часов. Обычно, люди выходят во двор и вместе с соседями начинают обсуждать происходящее, «мыть косточки» соседу, мэру города, а потом и президенту. Нет больше ни «ОК», ни «fb» – Н.И.Ч.Е.Г.О! Есть только надежда, что это всё скоро пройдёт и вернётся в привычное нам русло. Это уже не пройдёт. Окружающий нас мир перевернулся!

Что будет дальше?

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XW2DX. It's different in Laos.

Ниже находится текст на русском языке.

A squall wind and an impending thunderstorm sweep away everything in its path, raising columns of dust, debris and dry leaves. Packages, like paratroopers, soar upward and disappear in the arms of the blue sky. If the storm has caught you off guard, then it is better to have time to find a secluded spot. This "tsunami" of the oncoming torrential rain will not leave you dry.

I've always loved the storm! This natural strength inspired me and made me be careful. Be prepared for unpredictable developments.

Lao people said it was rainy season. It will rain every day, but the rains never started. We have lived in Montenegro for many years and imagine what the rainy seasons are like. This is not a pleasant time. Usually, it starts to rain in the 20th of November and ends at the end of January. For almost two and a half months, it rains incessantly. The sky is pouring out a sea of ​​water. It rains both day and night, continuously for two to three weeks. Then it calms down for a few days. The joyful sun peeps out and again precipitation with a cold snap by December. Sometimes even snow covers the ground with a white blanket and melts quickly. By the New Year and Christmas, all residents crawl to the tree, installed in the center of Herceg Novi, already drunk in the ass. People get depressed. Usually during this period undiagnosed chronic diseases emerge. Rakia, Turkish coffee and sea view, on a sunny day, is the best antidepressant.

The fungus covers the damp walls of apartments, houses, buildings. It smells damp everywhere. Cities take on a dark color. From a bird's eye view, it seems that the whole of Montenegro has turned black with moisture. Then this smell is replaced by the smell of freshness. Green shrubs release tassels of flowers, transforming cities into fragrant, colorful gardens. When the rain stops, the smells of flowers envelop the mind, and the intoxicating sensations of the multitude of iridescent rays of the sun, enter the body into a coma. The sun that came out for several days disperses the air, increasing the feeling of joy and renewal of life. It is at these moments that people feel happy. There comes a state of enjoying life with an unconscious understanding that you are somewhere. Every day the sun regains its place in the sky, and when mimosa blooms, a holiday begins in Montenegro! Spring Festival! Mimosa holiday! A holiday of life!

It's different in Laos.

 Going outside during the day for a few minutes, the whole body is covered with sweat. It flows down in streams. You have to change 2-3 shirts per day. The state is such that it is as if you are entering a steam room. I left the house for a few minutes, steamed, "washed" then and again home, under the conditioner. All this year of our life in Laos, it is in this state that we arrive.

All government and commercial institutions use air conditioners. Air conditioners are everywhere. Air conditioning service is a good, profitable, well-established business. But most of the population cannot afford to have an air conditioner, as it cannot afford it. Expensive electricity. And not every Lao family can shell out $ 100-150 a month for air conditioning alone. Therefore, ordinary fans are common in Laos. They are everywhere. Fans push air from corner to corner, thereby creating an oxygen flow that is not enough during the scorching heat. For centuries, Lao people have adapted to live in such conditions and this does not bother them too much.

When it starts raining, everyone is happy! We also enjoy the rain! Rain is salvation from the brightly scorching sun. Rain is a long-awaited coolness and good mood for the future!

Life goes on! It's only the beginning...

To be continued.


В Лаосе всё по-другому.

Шквальный ветер и надвигающаяся гроза сметают всё на своем пути, поднимая столбы пыли, мусора и сухих листьев. Пакеты, словно парашютисты, взвиваются вверх и пропадают в объятиях  голубого неба. Если буря застала тебя врасплох, то лучше успеть найти укромное местечко. Это «цунами» из надвигающегося проливного дождя не оставит на тебе сухого места.

Я всегда любил бурю! Эта природная сила вдохновляла меня и заставляла быть осмотрительным. Быть готовым к непредсказуемому развитию событий.

Лаосцы сказали, что наступил сезон дождей. Дожди будут идти каждый день, но дожди так и не начались. Мы много лет жили в Черногории и представляем себе, какими бывают сезоны дождей. Это время не из приятных. Обычно, в 20-х числах ноября начинает лить дождь и в конце января заканчивается. Почти два с половиной месяца дожди идут не переставая. Небо изливает море воды. Дождь льет и днём, и ночью, на протяжении двух-трех недель беспрерывно. Потом затихает на несколько дней. Выглядывает радостное солнце и опять осадки с похолоданием к декабрю. Иногда даже снег покрывает землю белым покрывалом и быстро тает. К Новому году и Рождеству все жители приползают к ёлке, установленной в центре города Герцег Нови, уже в жопу пьяные. У людей начинается депрессия. Обычно в этот период всплывают недиагностированные, хронические заболевания. Ракия, турска кафа и вид на море, в один из солнечных дней – это лучший антидепрессант.

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XW2DX Laos

XW2DX. Chasing DX!

Ниже находится текст на русском языке.

As a child, in the early 70-s, I attended the Fox Hunt club and the trainer allowed me to take home a fox catcher receiver. This was my first amateur radio receiver with which I made over 30,000 observations. UA3-117-501. All the walls of my room were hung with radio amateur diplomas and certificates. Bags of QSL cards were piled up and sorted constantly. The most memorable, the most beautiful, the most valuable cards were taken under glass on the desktop, and in the most prominent places. Even then, I did not sleep at night in search of DXs. Even then, I imagined that DX is the one who drifts on an ice floe, flies in a balloon, conquers the highest peak ... DX is a small island in the ocean, hung with antennas, where a bearded Robinson keeps his watch on the air. Previously, I did not understand why all these people risk their lives and health: for the sake of fame, for the sake of money, for the sake of testing themselves for strength?

The years passed. The radio amateur movement in the world in the early 80-s became one of the most popular and numerous. We constantly participated in competitions, "twisted" antennas, assembled amplifiers, read diagrams. Many people later connected their work and profession with radio.

Instead of doing SA in a military band and quietly wiping my pants until retirement, I chose an operational job. He graduated from DOSAAF. By that time, I already had 1 adult sports category for receiving and transmitting radiograms. I got into the radio intelligence unit "QN-s". These were the elite government communications troops of the USSR. We worked on the coolest and most modern equipment, which was not yet available in civilian life. The many kilometers of antenna fields were breathtaking. Of course, sometimes at night, I would listen to amateur radio broadcasts.

The whole world was in my headphones!

I had a terrific career opportunity in the military field, but that limited my personal ambitions. After the army, having finished the courses of polar radio operators, I went to conquer the islands of Kamchatka. Romance moved my spirit, and the "fairy tales" about Robinsons and DXs did not allow me to live peacefully in one place.

Bird Island, Karaginsky Island, Verkhoturov Island, brought up a real Robinson in me. In the 90-s, the Robinsons in our country united into a club. I also became a member of the Russian Robinson club (UA0XB, RRC-205).

Sea of Okhotsk, Kamchatka, Bird Island, IOTA  AS - 091
Sea of Okhotsk, Kamchatka, Bird Island, IOTA AS - 091

Those years of wandering gave impetus to writing author's poems and bard songs. The end of "Perestroika" and the collapse of the Soviet Union opened up incredible new travel opportunities around the world. First Europe, then Africa, South Africa, and the highest bar that I managed to conquer - became the Sixth Continent! (R1ANT, R1ANT / mm). For several months traveling on the "Akademik Fedorov" icebreaker around Antarctica, I landed at the Antarctic stations, along with the delivered cargo. I met amazing people, polar explorers, to whom I also referred myself, whom I can confidently call DX-s! All this time I kept an Antarctic diary, which is called: "NOTES FROM THE SIXTH CONTINENT".

Of course, it is not possible to independently develop, prepare and implement the program of any expedition. Typically, an organization employs a group of stakeholders. For many years my main assistants and partners were: RA3OA and RM0L (ex: RW3GW).

Civilization does not stand still. Crises are calculable. They flow from one place to another. The states, where it used to be dangerous, are being transformed and are opening up for tourists to visit. The realities are as follows. Laos, one of the links in the chain of the Socialist system, the former French colony, has now acquired a civilized character. People are here, not yet spoiled by money. Many foreign nationals from Europe stay in Laos forever. Liberal visa regime. Good attitude towards foreigners. Safely. You can buy property for 99 years. Open your own business, depending on the interest pursued. Many Europeans marry young, beautiful Lao girls, have 2-3 children, and calmly stay in a state of harmony and family happiness.

In pursuit of DXs, imperceptibly for myself, I turned from a Russian Robinson into a DX man. The biggest peak, as it turned out, is within ourselves. It takes all this life to conquer it!

To be continued.

В погоне за DX-сами!

В детстве, в начале 70-х годов, я посещал кружок «Охота на лис» и тренер разрешил мне взять домой приемник лисолова. Это был мой первый радиолюбительский приемник с которым я сделал более 30.000 наблюдений. UA3-117-501. Все стены моей комнаты были увешаны радиолюбительскими дипломами и грамотами. Мешки с QSL карточками накапливались и постоянно сортировались. Самые памятные, самый красивые, самые ценные карточки занимали мето под стеклом на рабочем столе, и на самых видных местах. Уже тогда я не спал ночами в поисках DX-сов. Уже тогда, представлял себе, что DX — это тот, кто дрейфует на льдине, летит на воздушном шаре, покоряет самую высокую вершину... DX — это маленький остров в окене, увешанный антеннами, где бородатый Робинзон несёт свою круглосуточную вахту в эфире. Раньше я не понимал, ради чего, все эти люди подвергают риску свою жизнь и здоровье: ради славы, ради денег, ради испытания самого себя на прочность?

Шли годы. Радиолюбительское движение в мире в начале 80-х стало одним из самых популярных и многочисленных. Мы постоянно участвовали в соревнованиях, «крутили» антенны, собирали  усилители, читали схемы. Многие, потом связали свою работу и профессию именно с радио.

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XW2DX Laos

XW2DX. Laos in my ears. Is it good to be vegetarians?


​Ниже находится текст на русском языке.

I slept a little today.

Yesterday night I wrote new material. Usually, I wake up at 05.45. And yesterday, already at night, Valery Sushkov (RM0L) sent me an e-QSL card layout. Interesting! Sent to all my friends on WhatsApp. Many people said: "Bravo"!

Barely limping to the kitchen, I made myself coffee with great difficulty. Lao coffee is a separate, "cool" topic and later, I will write a great article about it! In the morning, while you disperse, the whole body hurts. Fractures, they manage to heal a little during the night, and in the morning they have to be disturbed. You moan!

I can't lie in bed for a long time. The passage can open at any time. I switched on the transceiver. Silence, as if everyone was still asleep. I ran through the range. Continuous silence. There was a thunderstorm last night and I turned off the antenna. Returning the antenna to its place, the sounds of the ether appeared, but the passage has not yet been opened. I drink coffee. I am writing a blog.

We have lived for many years in the Balkans, in Montenegro. Accustomed to fatty, varied Balkan food. Wines for every taste and choice are huge! You go to the supermarket and pick up lamb, pork, chocolate, yogurts - whatever you want. Everything is very delicious! There was enough money!

In Laos, maybe in all of Asia, "such" food is very expensive. Basically, all local agricultural products are sold at exorbitant prices to China. Not every working Lao can afford to eat plenty of meat, smoked sausage, natural milk and yogurts, cheese, chocolate. For a whole year now we have been deprived of such an opportunity here. The prices for the food we are used to are very high. Of course, if my salary was $ 5,000, I would not even think about it. But this is not the case!

Here I keep looking at ordinary people, what they eat, drink, smoke, bad habits, etc. And here is the conclusion I came to. Even if world hunger begins on earth, and everything is heading towards this, the Lao people will not starve. They are not spoiled by food, although the variety of dishes and the food itself surprised us greatly. More than 30 different dishes can be prepared from just one rice. And there are about 20 varieties of rice in Laos: white, yellow, jasmine, brown, black, sticky, and each variety includes a dozen species that distinguish it from each other in taste. Even if there is rice of the same variety every day, then after 10 days, returning to ordinary rice, it turns out that it also has its own extraordinary taste. That is why Europeans do not understand anything about rice, and the number of varieties of rice sold in Europe is very limited. Rice is an environmentally friendly product with a high content of vitamin B. Moreover, it is natural and does not belong to genetically modified food. Lao people add a wide variety of sauces, seasonings to food, and this gives ordinary rice different flavoring properties.

Most Lao have very good teeth. How do you think the health of stallions is checked when they are bought? Of course, in the teeth. Snow-white, strong teeth speak of the good health of the Lao nation. When I chew this grass, leaves, stems, roots and other crap, it always seems to me that I am a herbivore.

And what are they eating here?

— Large amounts of different, odorless herbs, roots, leaves with a sour taste, stems, all kinds of fruit salads, hot peppers, spicy sauces, black pepper is added everywhere. Lao people consume large amounts of eggs, which are present in almost all dishes. A huge number of dishes, where meat seems to be there, but in fact there is very little of it. Just the taste of meat. All this food, at the very beginning, when we arrived here, seemed suspicious and frivolous. But this year we have become so accustomed that we gladly eat the same thing that ordinary Lao people eat. I even tried fried grasshoppers, crickets, maggots and other crap that I would never have noticed before. In general, in Laos we have become vegetarians in a sense.

What does it take to be healthy?

Most likely, it is the absence of smoked sausage, fatty meat, genetically modified chocolate, incomprehensible sweets, a large amount of canned products and concentrated juices that makes this nation healthy and happy. There are no carcinogens or preservatives in their diet. During the constant heat, people try not to store food. Yes, and there have never been so many freezers here to freeze food for a long time. Therefore, everything they eat here every day is fresh and made with fresh ingredients. They eat live, unprocessed, uncanned food. They drink natural, live juices of their own production, fragrant coffee and excellent beer "BeerLao".

Lao people are less stressed. The sun keeps them from being sad all year round and keeps their smile and laughter in good shape. Lao people especially laugh a lot when they drink beer. Every evening they gather in large companies, families, for a collective dinner and drink a lot of beer, and then they sing songs, tell funny stories and laugh at them themselves. There is no place for depression and illness, anger and hatred. It is laughter that cleanses the body of all diseases!

In a healthy body healthy mind!

To be continued

Я сегодня немного проспал.

Вчера до ночи писал новый материал. Обычно, я просыпаюсь в 05.45. А вчера, уже ночью, Валерий Сушков (RM0L) прислал мне верстку е-QSL карточки. Интересно! Послал всем своим друзьям по ватцапу. Многие сказали: «Браво»!
Едва доковыляв до кухни, я с большим трудом сварил себе кофе. Лаосский кофе-это отдельная, «крутая» тема и позже, я напишу о нём большую статью! Утром, пока расходишься, все тело болит. Переломы, за ночь успевают немного зажить, а утром приходится их беспокоить. Стонешь!

Не могу долго валяться в кровати. Прохождение может открыться в любой момент. Включил трансивер. Тишина, как будто все ещё спят. Пробежал по диопазону. Сплошная тишина. Вчера вечером была гроза и я отключил антенну. Вернув антенну на место, появились звуки эфира, но прохождение ещё не открылось. Пью кофе. Пишу в блог.
Мы много лет прожили на Балканах, в Черногории. Привыкли к жирной, разнообразной балканской пище. Вина на любой вкус и выбор, огромен! Заходишь в супермаркет и набираешь баранины, свинины, шоколада, йогурты- всё, что хочешь. Всё очень вкусно! Денег хватало!

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XW2DX Laos

XW2DX. Laos in my ears. Why is there empty air in Laos?

Ниже находится текст на русском языке.

Why is there empty air in Laos?

Often, you sit for hours, listening to the noises of the range, like in an echo sounder, trying to make out the sounds from air bubbles rising up from the day of the deep-sea depression. This noise remains for a long time after you remove the headphones. There is a constant noise in the ears and the brain emits distant signals from some stations. It is a state of memory that remembers the information heard and continually replays it in search of signal detection.

Laos is empty air.

There are no radio amateurs here. There are few of them even in the countries neighboring to Laos: Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Burma. Sometimes, when the passage begins, an unusual state rolls over, as at the moment of an approaching tsunami. The ether can begin to open within 1-2 minutes and the range immediately revives. A large number of sounds, distant stations, voices, interference appear. Porridge! All this in one moment, like a quickly opening door, throws open a window with a draft, bursting into the inexplicable world of the universe. At this moment, her - the universe, for some time is illuminated by the rays of the sun that has emerged from the shadows of other planets.

 Most often, in Laos, Malaysian and Indonesian stations are heard, which are actively working on a common call. I have modest antennas: 1 - half-wave dipole at 14 MHz, directed to the northwest; 2 - vertical antenna 5.2 m with counterweights 5.2 m to the south. For some reason, the attenuator and SWR meter do not work in Icom-706. Therefore, I do not know if my antennas are matched with the transceiver ?! I am assuming that I am actually running a QRP with only 5-10 watts. Alexander (RD3OA) suggested that I send an FT-1000 transceiver to Laos. But planes still do not fly here, all borders are closed. And it is not yet clear when at least some international flights will be resumed ...

Exactly a week ago, I wanted to install another antenna that I developed, called the "STRING", which in a sense resembles a violin bow, but fell off a tree and broke its ribs. Not all new designs get God's approval. For this one must suffer, suffer and repent!

Very little time passed, and only today I felt a little relief. The chest ached at night. It was impossible to take a deep breath. The inflamed intercostal nerve was constantly pinched by swollen ribs and caused a terrible, shooting pain in the back. The condition is such that as if a knife is sticking out in the chest, causing persistent pain. All these days I had to inject painkillers and keep a chicken frozen in ice in place of the injury. I was not able to go to the toilet properly, and coughing and sneezing made me panic.

But all this is over and I'm a little better.

I missed the IOTA competition because I could not prepare properly, and most importantly, the day before I fell out of a tree.

I still listened to the broadcast with one ear to distract myself from the pain. The air was buzzing!

There were a huge number of stations, both from Europe and Asia. Everything was confused. This is the kind of broadcast I love! I remembered 2015, when our team led by "WOLF" (4O / UA3RF), Nikolay (4O / RK3RB) and me (4O7XB), participated in IOTA from the island of St. Nicholas (EU-163), which is located in the Adriatic Sea. Alexander (4O / UA3RF) then won a prize. Nikolai is the third. I was in sixth place. Such moments are not erased from memory. I found a link to the resource  http://www.rudiaspora.me/s/news/mezhdunarodnye-sorevnovaniya-radiolyubitelei/

In 2016, "WOLF" (UA3RF) and I planned to participate in IOTA from Albania, from the island of Sazani, but then I could not get permission for this. The same thing happened to me in Laos. If there are no radio amateurs, then no one knows where to go, and what the name of this state structure is. Nobody knows where she is. It took a long time to find at least some information, reach a contact person, conduct negotiations, collect a bunch of documents, and in the end - get a license to work on the air. Earlier, I somehow did not think about it, that so much time can be wasted in order to get a callsign.

Lao callsign is like a young, beautiful Lao girl with whom a relationship began.

  To start a new, happy life, you just need to get a Lao callsign!

To be continued.

Почему в Лаосе пустой эфир?

Часто, сидишь часами, вслушиваясь в шумы диапазона, как в эхолоте, пытаясь разобрать звуки от пузырьков воздуха, поднимающегося со дня глубоководной впадины вверх. Этот шум остается еще долгое время, после того, как снимешь наушники. В ушах постоянно шумит и мозг выделяет далекие сигналы каких-то станций. Это состояние памяти, которая запоминает услышанную информацию и постоянно воспроизводит её в поисках обнаружения сигналов.

В Лаосе пустой эфир.

Здесь нет радиолюбителей. Их мало даже в соседних с Лаосом странах: Тайланде, Камбодже, Вьетнаме, Бирме. Иногда, когда начинается прохождение, накатывает необычное состояние, как в момент приближающегося цунами. Эфир в течение 1-2 минут может начать открываться и сразу оживает диапазон. Появляется большое количество звуков, удаленных станций, голоса, помехи. Каша! Все это в один момент, как быстро отрывающаяся дверь, распахивает сквозняком форточку, врываясь в необъяснимый мир вселенной. В этот момент, её - вселенную, на некоторое время освещают лучи вышедшего из тени других планет - солнца.
Чаще всего, в Лаосе слышны малазийские и индонезийские станции, которые активно работают на общий вызов. У меня скромные антенны: 1 - полуволновый диполь на 14 Мгц, направленный на северо-запад; 2 - вертикальная антенна 5.2 м с противовесами по 5.2 м на юг. Почему-то в Icom-706  не работает аттеньюатор и КСВ метр. Поэтому, я не знаю, согласованы ли мои антенны с трансивером?! Предполагаю, что на самом деле я работаю QRP  с мощностью всего 5-10 ватт. Александр (RD3ОА) предлагал мне послать в Лаос трансивер FT-1000. Но сюда до сих пор не летают самолеты, все границы закрыты. И пока непонятно, когда будут возобновлены хоть какие-то международные авиарейсы…

Ровно неделю назад я хотел установить еще одну, мной разработанную антенну, под названием «СМЫЧОК», которая в каком-то смысле напоминает смычок от срипки, но свалился с дерева и сломал себе ребра. Не все новые разработки получают Божье одобрение. За это надо страдать, мучаться и каяться!

Прошло совсем немного времени, и только сегодня я почувствовал небольшое облегчение. Ночами болела грудная клетка. Невозможно было глубоко вдохнуть. Воспаленный межреберный нерв постоянно защемлялся отёкшими ребрами и вызывал страшную, стреляющую боль в спине. Состояние такое, что как будто в груди торчит нож, вызывая неутихающую боль. Все эти дни пришлось колоть обезболивающие и держать на месте травмы замороженную в лед курицу. Не было возможности нормально сходить в туалет, а кашель и чихание вызывало у меня панику.
Но все это уже позади и мне немного лучше.
Я пропустил IOTA соревнования, потому что не смог квалифицированно подготовиться, а главное, что за день до этого я свалился с дерева.

Одним ухом я всё-таки слушал эфир, чтобы отвлечься от боли. Эфир гудел!

Было огромное количество станций, как из Европы, так и из Азии. Все смешалось. Вот именно такой эфир я люблю! Вспомнился 2015 год, когда наша команда под руководство «ВОЛКа» (4О/UA3RF), Николая  (4O/RK3RB) и меня (4O7XB), участвовали в IOTA с острова Святого Николая (EU-163), который находится в Адриатическом море. Александр (4О/UA3RF) тогда занял призовое место.  Николай - третье. Я был на шестом месте. Такие моменты не стираются из памяти. Вот нашел ссылку на ресурс http://www.rudiaspora.me/s/news/mezhdunarodnye-sorevnovaniya-radiolyubitelei/

В 2016 году мы с «ВОЛКОМ» (UA3RF) планировали участвовать в IOTA из Албании, с острова Сазани, но тогда я так и не смог получить на это разрешение. То же самое со мной происходило в Лаосе. Если нет радиолюбителей, то никто не знает куда обращаться, и как называется эта государственная структура. Никто не знает, где она находится. Понадобилось много времени, чтобы найти хоть какую-то информацию, выйти на контактное лицо, провести переговоры, собрать кучу документов, и в конце концов - получить лицензию на работу в эфире. Раньше я как-то об этом не задумывался, что столько времени можно впустую потратить ради получения позывного.
Лаосский позывной - это как молодая, красивая лаосская девушка, с которой начались отношения.
Чтобы начать новую, счастливую жизнь, нужно просто получить лаосский позывной!

Продолжение следует.

XW2DX Laos

XW2DX. Laos in my ears. Laos is a wonderful dream.

This is real Laos.

Ниже находится текст на русском языке.

Have people always tried to understand what is in paradise?

Paradise is a place where the sun constantly shines, birds sing, exotic plants smell sweet, small hummingbirds fly from flower to flower, large elephants pick bananas from the branches of many-leaved palms. Spotted parrots make bizarre sounds. Somewhere a stream gurgles and a young, beautiful Lao girl sings in a bewitching voice.

This is how this heavenly place is presented and, apparently, it was my beautiful dream, in which I stayed for a long time.

Daybreak ...

Through the dream, the howling of dogs was heard. They howled like wolves. Together. Organized. In chorus. I came across such a phenomenon in the north of Kamchatka, when dogs in a team at some point whine from the cold. So - local dogs, as if at a click, begin to howl at the same time. Their howls are picked up by the dogs of nearby neighborhoods. It seems that at five o'clock in the morning the whole city of Vientiane howls in an inhuman voice, for a few minutes. At some point, everything calms down ...

At first, you cannot even understand this, that howling dogs crawl into your dreams of paradise ... Again drowsiness envelops your consciousness and takes you to a place where the wind sways palms and birds sing.

Suddenly, on the roof, like a herd of elephants, a flock of wild monkeys sweeps screaming. Frightened dogs again howl not with their own voices, waking people up. Under the roof, rats wake up and start jumping all over the house, as if a whole football team was kicking a ball from corner to corner.

Fear awakens consciousness. How long have you been trying to figure out what's really going on? And again there is silence ...

Somewhere around the corner, cats start screaming, howling baby crying. This is alarming. It seems that a small child is crying in front of your door and begs to let him in.

Once again you fall into a dream, through which, vibrating, the muffled beats of the gong and the drawn-out prayer of Buddhist monks rush ... Buddhist temples are located in Vientiane at every corner, so it is impossible not to hear the low vibrations of the gong. His beats wake people up instead of an alarm clock.

After some time, at about 05.45, millions of cicadas begin to itch like a snap, as if extraneous noises from headphones, but with an increasing force of up to 10 decibels, which cover the city with a hissing pouring rain. And exactly 10 minutes later, everything instantly subsides.

Everything, as if, on schedule ...

At 05.55 a neighbor starts chopping wood to light a fire and make himself rice and tea. The smoke flows into the premises through the open windows. And at 06.00, a neighbor's janitor, coughing, starts cleaning the street on which we live, creaking with a metal trolley, like the creak of worn-out brake pads ...

If this is repeated every morning, then at one point, heavenly dreams explode consciousness with rage that you do not live in Vientiane, the capital of Laos, but in a remote Lao village, on the border with the jungle.

Each country has its own characteristics, and they must be perceived as a gift from God. This flavor distinguishes Laos from other Asian states.

The main thing in this life is for people to be happy in their country and love their land, whatever it is ...

To be continued.


Это настоящий Лаос. 

Люди всегда пытались понять, что находится в раю?

Рай — это место, где постоянно светит солнце, поют птицы, благоухают запахами экзотические растения, маленькие колибри перелетают с цветка на цветок, большие слоны рвут бананы с веток многолистных пальм. Пёстрые попугаи издают причудливые звуки. Где-то журчит ручей и завораживающим голосом поёт молодая, красивая лаосская девушка.

Именно так представляется это райское место и, видимо, это был мой прекрасный сон, в котором я долгое время пребывал.

Светает…

Сквозь сон был слышен вой собак. Они выли, как будто волки. Все вместе. Организованно. Хором. С таким явлением я сталкивался на севере Камчатки, когда собаки в упряжке в какой-то момент все взвывают от холода. Так вот - местные собаки, как будто по щелчку начинают одновременно выть. Их вой подхватывают собаки близлежащих кварталов. Кажется, что в пять часов утра весь город Вьентьян взвывает нечеловеческим голосом, на несколько минут. В какой-то момент все затихает…

Вначале, не можешь даже этого понять, что в твои райские сны влезают воющие собаки... Опять дремота обволакивает сознание и переносит тебя в место, где ветер колышет пальмы и поют птицы.

Внезапно, по крыше, как будто стадо слонов, проносится с криками стая диких обезьян. Испугавшиеся собаки опять взвывают не своими голосами, пробуждая людей. Под крышей просыпаются крысы и начинают прыгать по всему дому, как будто целая футбольная команда гоняет мяч из угла в угол.

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